Not-so-fast fixes
Although it’s been a very busy week, I just don’t seem to have a lot to show for it. I was hell bent on fixing my Tabula Rosa vest as well as my July “Take 5” Elizabeth Barton Master Class quilt. Both are going to take longer than I thought but as always, I’m sure to learn a lot to learn along the way.
In review, here is the “before” shot of the vest: the proportions were all off-the vest was way too long for me.
After shortening the front of the vest about 2 1/4″ and tapering to 1 1/2″ in back, the proportions are infinitely better.
Some fashion rules make sense and it is said that short girls should never wear a top that covers the crotch-it makes us look like we’re blobs on short little legs. And even if we are blobs on short little legs, we don’t want to emphasize that! The shorter vest is a huge improvement.
I have read that in haute couture clothing, great attention is paid to proportion. A simple lapel might be cut down a mere 1/4″ for a diminutive client, the waist shortened by 1/2″. Little micro adjustments like that are key to flatter the shorter woman and adjusting the hem for my proportions is a case in point.
From the back, the “before” version covered the bottom and gave that “tent-over-body” feel.
The shortened back now exposes just a bit of the curve of the bottom-a much more flattering cut for me.
I am not sure what all I will do to try to finish the adjustments on this vest. I do know I will remove the swing side and replace it with a straight side. I also think the front band is too wide for my body and I will reduce its width by 1/2″ to start.
I also want the center front edge of the garment to expose some of my torso to counteract the volume of the vest. This may fix itself when I add the straight side so I’ll wait on that fix. Even on a simple garment the proportions must be carefully considered.
All this is worth the time. I really like the design of this vest: it’s easy construction, good design and those dog gone cute squared-off arm scythes charm me!
And this is why I should have made a muslin. I would have made my adjustments there and had a more successful garment.
On another note, the critique on my July quilt was interesting. Elizabeth suggested several things: paint the “peaks” of the background, leaving the “valleys”, circles and squares untouched; quilting the circles and squares in a darker thread (I suggested and she concurred); or just let it be, since the pink is so delightful and the shadows are subtle, yet do highlight the circles and squares.
So I quilted up a practice piece and tried dabbing some Jacquard paint atop the piece. Eh. It’s definitely not there, but then I know next to nothing about paint. I need the time to consider what to do here.
I do like this idea-SAQA member Diedre Adams’ Composition series adds paint to her work. I’ve seen it in person and really like the effect. So the concept works for me, but not what I’ve done so far.
I am going to start by going back and adding darker thread around the design first. That may be all it needs. I like the subtlety of the piece (as did Elizabeth) but I don’t want to go overboard. I hope to have a moment to play with thread in the next week so maybe I will have resolved this piece by my next post.
I have been so consumed with my business work, SAQA work, teaching and computer issues that I have had precious little time to actually create. I am working on a piece that I hope to enter into PIQF that has barely been started….and images are due in exactly 19 days. It may be quiet on my blog for awhile.
I love to paint over my background quilting. I use interior house primer (I had a can). The first coat allows you to still see the color thru it. Then if I want it darker, I put a second light coat or a colored paint. It’s scary to paint a piece, but I have always liked it when finished.
I am so not used to painting my work! This will be a big step if I do. Thank you for the tips and encouragement. I do think part of the problem with my practice piece is that it needs variety in color.
Did you trying painting with a brush or a little sponge roller? It can make a big difference. I love your vest.
I used a foam brush and kept thinking I should use a roller. I simply did not have one in the house at the time my little brain decided I wanted to try to paint it NOW! I will have to try that-thank you Marti!
The paint adds an interesting element. I know what you mean about not having time in the studio b/c of the business stuff!
But it’s so scary! Paint is a medium I want to get comfortable with and just haven’t yet. I do like the additional layer of interest. I’ll bet you know about the lack of studio time-you are one busy girl!
At first glance I thought the last picture was of an unmade bed. Then the saw the machine and decided even if you are devoted to your work you don’t take your machine to bed with you. Hang in there! Each piece needs its own time and you have to go with the flow. One can only do so much in one day and our ideas are always ahead of the time that we have to devote to carrying them out.
LOL! I agree, but there are deadlines looming….always…. Yes, ideas exceed the number of hours in the day!
“…The shortened back now exposes just a bit of the curve of the bottom-a much more flattering cut for me…” Okay, Miss Jenny, I hope you will be wearing PANTS with this vest, no matter how adorable the curve of your bottom might be. ;-) Sorry. I couldn’t resist — that was the first thought that popped into my head when I saw the photo with the naked mannequin tushie peeking out from the back of the shortened vest.
I love seeing what you’re working on, especially when you share about the process and the trial-and-error that goes on behind the scenes. Slightly OT — what kind of dress form do you have, and do you like it? I’ve only attempted garment sewing a couple of times and the results have been disastrous. I think that if I could get my hands on a dress form shaped more or less like me, I might be able to alter a pattern so that I could make a dress to fit myself instead of yet another dress that fits my refrigerator. Any suggestions appreciated!
Truly LOL Rebecca Grace! Yes, I generally wear pants or something on my lower half except during those dreams that I sometimes have where I’m out in public and forgot to put on pants!
I have a Fabulous Fit full dress form with collapsible shoulder and removeable arms. I wanted the full length for pants. I got it on sale at the end of the fashion year when the slopers were going to change. I purchased it about 8 years ago for around $500. Pricey yes, but it is so worth it if you make garments.
You buy the form for the smallest part of your body and then pad her up to become you (if you aren’t a perfect 19 year old body!) Truthfully I never took the time to pad her up. I don’t deviate a whole lot from the form except the arms where I am literally like 8 sizes larger than her.
It’s also hard to pad up for “old lady” stuff like my rounding shoulders and impossible to capture my exceptionally long waist and very short saddle on a dress form. But she is pretty close to me otherwise so it is just wonderful to sew and throw the garment on her to see how it’s fitting and how it looks.
If you’re getting into garment sewing I suggest finding your local Am Sewing Guild and join their garment group. My group is fabulous and help with fit and proper technique-a godsend.
I so sympathize about the pattern. Probably the main reason I no longer make my clothes is that I grew tired of investing the time and $ only to have the result look awful on me. My granny used to fit patterns to me and give tactful advice about which styles to choose, but she’s been gone for decades.
As to painting your piece, you might want to look at a 2007 book called “The Painted Quilt” by a mother/daughter team, Kemshall is their last name. They review paint, paintstiks and other tools to apply color after quilting. I think a rubber roller (not too squishy the way many foam ones are) might work better than a foam brush for even paint application on just the highest areas. Yes, it’s totally scary to do this once your piece is quilted.
Paint, in the amounts you’re planning to use on fabric, is a new venture for me too. Fortunately, like anything new, it gets easier each time you do it. I’m finding that the junk mail painting and watercolor I’m doing are helping me to relax with the whole idea. Bottom line: it’s something to add to the tool kit and we all love that. Go for it with gusto Jenny!